Me, here, alone, at seven o'clock in the morning, at Gatwick airport, going on an expedition with three Lieutenant Commanders, to Benidorm, with my reputation........

The four of us (Neil Hicking, Dave Barrett, Mick Cooke & myself) met at Gatwick airport early on Saturday morning to catch our flight to Alicante. The hire car company then had a small shock when Mick handed them a massive list detailing the existing damage to their so-called 'mint' vehicle. Our desire for directions to the apartment was thwarted by the holiday staff but after an hour's drive up the autoroute and a circuitous trip around New Benidorm we arrived at our apartment, the 'Monte Carlo'. The afternoon was used to sort kit and buy in victuals.

Dave and Mick arose early to run along the beach to Old Benidorm. Neil and I slept. The weather was cool and a little overcast and over breakfast the decision was made to spend the day at Sella, approximately 45 minutes' drive inland. The morning was spent on the single pitch limestone 'Cabeza de Rhino' crag. Our German guidebook was compared to the locally produced topo, which was far more comprehensive. Unfortunately our attempts to buy a copy were unsuccessful due to the absence of the Guardienne of the Refugio. The rock here was slightly polished but the friction was good. The usual European scarcity of bolts at the bottom of the climbs was of concern. By way of an introduction to the rock type, routes with inspiring names like 'Frustaction Agricola' (5) and 'Verglas Que Si' (5+) were tackled during the morning. Neil considered the climbing here to be similar to Symonds Yat in the Wye Valley and Wild Cat at Matlock. After a marvellous sandwich lunch we moved around the corner to the larger 'Culo de Rhino'. Here the crag was much busier with the locals taking advantage of a brightening Sunday afternoon. Some climbs here were multi-pitch and were well bolted but the rock was much more polished. The final climb finished as a cool wind sprang up and a few raindrops descended, this was the catalyst for a retreat to the apartment. The return journey passed via the small town of Finestrat where the approach to the 'Puig Campana' was recced ("Time spent on reconnaissance is seldom wasted" Martin Price, Haute Route '97). This is the large mountain behind Benidorm with a prominent square cut notch in the ridgeline. After the usual morning exercises the four of us drove up the coast to climb at 'Toix'. A quick recce was made en route of the ridge to 'Barranco de Mascarat', a possible full day multi pitch climb for later in the week.

Toix is a fine crag with a mixture of bolts (some new, some iron age remnants) and some trad routes. The peace was somewhat shattered by the constant construction work going on nearby. The radiant sunshine was countered by a stiff wind and communication was restricted to sign language. The rock here was much sharper and the friction correspondingly better. The usual scarcity of bottom end bolts was by now accepted. The crag was quiet with the only other climbers also from our hotel. Our guidebooks were compared to their Rockfax and we cursed that we had been unable to locate one prior to our departure. One for the Christmas List! The final climb was a trad continuation to the summit, followed by a ridge traverse, moving together alpine style as the sun dipped slowly toward the sea. The bottom of the crag was regained as the light began to fail and we returned to the apartment. We readied ourselves for an early start to give us all the daylight hours to tackle the 'Puig Campana' the next day.

Up at 0530 and away by 0600. We arrived too early at the car park and dozed in the car until first light. The wind was cold and extremely strong but we decided to walk to the start of the climb anyway. During this we realised the guidebook had somehow been left in the car. Once we had located the start area it was decided, in the face of continuing gusty conditions, to leave the route for the morrow. During our descent Mick returned to his Troglodyte roots by insisting on visiting many of the holes that had been formed by the running water dissolving the rock. After refreshments at the car park we drove around to 'Sella' to conduct a skills afternoon on rescue and assistance techniques. As a bonus, we finally tracked down the Guardienne to purchase copies of the local guidebook. Back to the apartment for an early night in readiness for day two of 'Campaign Puig Campana.'

Up at 0600 as the sunrise timings were now practised. We arrived at the start of the 'Espero sur Central' route to begin the climb at 0900, the weather was still windy but nothing compared to the previous day. The 'Puig Campana' is 1406m high although the route we were attempting was a classic of alpine proportions with 1200 feet of ascent. Although our guidebook graded it a Severe the opinions were more an HS 4b or AD/AD+ UIAA grade. The rock was changeable during the climb but the friction superb. The crux moves were good for the thought process and more challenging as the rock was markedly polished at these points. The lower sections could be climbed as desired but as the route continued onto the arête proper the pitches were much more restricted. The wind-chill was noticeable, unless your belay was in the lee, but by mid afternoon the wind had died and the climb became 'hot rock'. A challenging traverse, with some fixed wires climbed using via ferrata, was completed to reach the scree filled descent gully. Whilst de-kitting here the rock that I was stood on decided to 'surf' down towards Neil, my selfless sacrifice (or fall) resulted in a case of gravel rash. This wasn't the only slip during our descent and we arrived at the car as the light was failing. A welcome celebratory beer was imbibed in Finestrat. Neil showed his language skills by ordering 'Café con Leche' and then drinking the Coke brought by the waiter.

A lazy start after the exertions of yesterday, but a fresh challenge with the dominating 300m calcite rock tower of the Peñon de Ifach. Neil had a day as support base camp manager so the 'Quattro Calamares' transformed into the 'Tres Amigos' for a route called 'Via Valencianos'. Me, spoofing for the best pitches, with my reputation&ldots; so Mick held out three sticks and I drew the shortest and therefore the two crux pitches. Off we climbed, the rock was variable, broken and loose at the bottom but still well polished. Higher up the rock was solid but the polishing became more intense. The crux was a layback crack, with some fixed protection, which a tub of K-Y Jelly would not have made slippier. After some amusing arm jams, sweating and much cursing we caught up with the pair climbing ahead of us. The delay was initially enjoyed as we were in the lee and the sun was hot. A queue formed as another pair caught up with us. A marvellous slab climb led to the ridge, a view down into Calpe harbour and a biting wind. The climb continued along the ridge and up to the summit with the wind causing communication problems and time getting short as the sun descended. The final two pitches were completed with just enough time to enjoy the fantastic view down the 'Deirdro UBSA' route, topping out just after sunset. The final pair were still behind us so we waved to ensure they knew where the route went. A sign and the guidebook description confused the descent and we returned to the finish of the climb as the last pair, from Llanberis, arrived. They had no head torches and so, RN to the rescue, they joined us in our quest for the tunnel back to Calpe. After a few wrong turns and some mobile phone comms with Neil the five of us were happy to hear a hearty 'Ha-ha!'. The silhouette of Neil guided us to the tunnel and we returned to Calpe. Here the Police and the worried parents of our new companions met us. They were whisked away to produce passports and we returned to our car. Next quest some well deserved scran! As the weather during the week had not forced a rest/admin day we spent the forenoon checking the out-muster routine and sending the obligatory post cards. After lunch we returned to explore the Mascarat Gorge near Calpe. The team took the opportunity to pay their respects at a small memorial plaque on the base of one of the bridges over the gorge where RNRMMC member Lieutenant Christian Crowther was tragically killed whilst bridge jumping on 16 August 1989. We returned to the apartment to stow all kit and have a final run ashore. Tonight's special act at the Triangle Pub Karaoke was 'Los Quattro Calamares' in full, if not splendid, voice. Me, singing in a Karaoke bar, with my reputation, they must be mad...........

We only touched the tip of the iceberg of the amazing climbing in this part of Spain. The cost of flights, accommodation and living are very reasonable and make this a prime venue for rock climbing out of the British season.