The 11 ranks of the Outdoor Leadership Training Element Talybont touched down in the Mojave Desert to be greeted by a chill wind and just a hint of drizzle in the air, not really what we had in mind after venturing across to the western US to climb at the Mecca of Red Rocks and of course if one was forced...have the odd run ashore in down town Vega!
I know we should sound grateful to have a week of climbing in Red Rocks, but a week is just not long enough for all the places you could go, there are 4 different guidebooks covering well over 4000 routes and plenty of scope for new routing. Bolted or traditional, single or multi - it is all there, so guidance was sought from the gurus in Desert Rock Sports on Charleston. The laughter told us that not many Americans climbed this time of year in Red Rocks (December) due to the cold, we smiled politely and educated the owners of said shop about the delights of a British summer and how this was a mere cloudy day to us!
Visa cards were abused and then the 1st pull out beckoned for the initial climbing of the trip. The reddish rough sandstone was novel to most of the expedition members, and so we selected our first routes with caution, checking out bolt placements and lower off set ups, although at least one of the team dived onto a certain gnarly run out route and had to buy "Buds" for the support received in making the sanctuary of the anchor point. The enthusiasm for route bagging resided as we found ourselves being overtaken by darkness and the mad race for the wagons to save us from being locked in the park overnight saw the non-gym Adonis ranks actually partaking in fitness training - awesome!
Calico Basin was next on the agenda and the routes of Cannibal crag saw hangovers from the Coyote Ugly bar (obviously a forced night out in Vegas?), take a back seat as the adrenaline rush of being 10ft above the last runner on a non-reversible move (and you dream of this bit!), and then realise no-one has bothered to bolt the last 20ft to the anchor hit home!!
Such routes as "Ma and Pa in the kettle", the mighty "Caliban" and "A man in every pot" kept the team entertained until darkness again descended. The highlight of the day was the climbing demo by semi local climber Jarret Hunter from Austin, Texas as he warmed up on a 5.11b with the grace of a ballerina, just somewhat different from the attempted RN styled assault a little earlier.
Multi-pitching was the order of the day and so we enthused our way to Icebox Canyon (you can say that again?) to allow pairs to climb the fantastic traditional routes of "Sensuous Mortician", "Hop Route" and "Fold Out", the exposure and hanging belays for some was the high point of the trip, the "Traverse of the Gods" finish to "Fold Out" being more than memorable! One team ventured into Pine Creek Canyon to play on "The Cat in the Hat", although the team never quite made it to the top as a Canadian team needed some assistance from the RN in rappelling down successfully as a few of their techniques left a little to be desired.
Evening beckoned and downtown Vegas is a sight to behold and not to be missed, every casino having a theme - the Sirens of Treasure Island being one of the best free shows currently on offer - even if we did have to run the Strip to see it! The next day found us at the secret crag just on the outskirts of the city, a limestone venue that saw the die-hard expedition members shredding their tips and Murphster the expedition organiser bagging his first 5.10! (You can't wear the shoes until you've climbed 5.10 - it's the law!). After that it became a little surreal as we found ourselves at a wedding in Vegas but that's for another time or when Mr Cooke gets his guitar out.....
"Cat in the Hat" purred nicely once again and sucked the same team back - the top being the goal, while a visit back to Calico Basin and "Physical Graffiti" and "Over the hill to grandma's house" tempted the remaining expedition members. It should have been renamed the "hard way over the hill &ldots;" as helmets were abandoned to allow head jams to take place as the sandstone crack battle commenced. Darkness and slow moving traffic again prevented the "Cat" team from making the summit of a fantastic multi-pitch traditional route, the Calico team returning to the base casino to find gambling and alcohol being used to pacify the "Cat's" depression.
The last day and a return to a route spied earlier - "The Fox" the best route in Red Rocks", which is some accolade for an area with an estimated 4000 routes! The dice were rolled and the lead was taken - oh really...only if you had a friend the size of your oppos head or rather large pair of b#ll'\=cks... The top ropes came out and away we climbed on a pristine layback for nearly 80ft, at one point a body jam not going amiss! A short break was taken to assist some fellow climbers who had a 50m rope on a 60m pitch and then darkness again called a conclusion to the climbing for this expedition.
Red Rocks yet again proved to be an extraordinary destination for the scope and style of climbing available. The mild climate makes for an ideal winter destination for us Brits, air travel and accommodation being cheap enough to compete with most of the European climbing resorts. The nightlife in Vegas takes will power to resist, as it is not the tacky cousin of Blackpool as so often thought - it is definitely worth a few dollars here and there, but of course the climbing being the all important reason for visiting this highly unusual meeting of western over-indulgence and natural outstanding beauty and remoteness.
Have a Nice Day....yer hear! |